No visit to Bali would be complete without a trip to see at least one of Bali’s temples. There are over 20,000 Pura (Balinese for temple) in Bali at last count, a widespread marker of Bali’s exuberant culture; you don’t have to make an effort to see all of them, but you do have to see at least a few of the temples listed below.

Some temples can be seen in a single trip (Tirta Empul and Pura Gunung Kawi are both near Tampaksiring, for instance); others may need a little more advance planning. In any case, the effort to see any of these Bali temples is effort well spent – particularly if your visit coincides with an odalan, or temple festival!

Holy of Holies: Pura Besakih

The holiest of all temples in Bali, the “Mother Temple” of Pura Besakih is located some 3,000 feet up Gunung Agung in East Bali. This sprawling complex consolidates 23 separate temples, some dating back to the 10th century. The temple’s main axis aligns with the peak of Gunung Agung, the tallest mountain and holiest site in all of Bali.

Pura Besakih narrowly escaped destruction in 1963, as lava flow from Gunung Agung’s killer eruption missed the temple by mere yards. Today, Pura Besakih is a major draw for tourists and for devout Balinese. (For other tourist attractions in this part of the island, read: ​​Places to See in East Bali.)

Location: East Bali, accessible via Ubud, Denpasar or Candidasa.

Odalan of Pura Penataran Agung (biggest temple) falls on: July 5 (2019), January 31 and August 28 (2020), March 2 and October 22 (2021)

Valley of the Kings: Pura Gunung Kawi

Located about a mile south of Tampaksiring, Bali’s “Valley of the Kings” is located in a ravine between rice fields. The Pakerisan river flows through this ravine, and the cliffs flanking the river feature shrines carved into the stone honoring kings and queens from the 11th century. The Balinese, who are big believers in the holiness of water, believe that the river sanctifies Pura Gunung Kawi.

The site isn’t a temple per se, neither is it an actual tomb – the royalty honored here were likely cremated as per Balinese custom.

Location: Near Tampaksiring, accessible via Ubud. The temple can be visited together with Tirta Empul nearby. 

Odalan falls on: March 24 and October 20 (2019), May 17 and December 13 (2020), July 11 (2021) 

Healing Waters: Tirta Empul

The sacred spring that feeds Tirta Empul provides holy water for priests and bathing for ordinary Balinese, who believe that a dip hereabouts can bring good fortune and health. An offering must first be made at the temple before you can climb into the long main pool to bathe and meditate.

Legend has it that the god Indra created the spring Tampaksiring (namesake of the nearby town) as an antidote to a poisonous spring created by an evil demon king.

In reality, Tirta Empul was probably built in 926 AD during the Balinese Warmadewa dynasty. A villa complex nearby houses government VIPs; it was originally constructed for ​former President Sukarno in the 1950s.

Location: Near Tampaksiring, accessible via Ubud . The temple can be visited together with Pura Gunung Kawi nearby. 

Odalan falls on: April 22 and November 18 (2019), June 15 (2020), January 11 and August 9 (2021)

Stairway to Heaven: Pura Luhur Lempuyang

Obscurity aside, the temple of Pura Luhur Lempuyang is one of Bali’s most important religious places: it’s one of the six sad kahyangan (“temples of the world”) dedicated to Sang Hyang Widi Wasa (the supreme God), and it’s also one of the island’s nine directional temples that “protects” the native Balinese from evil spirits.

The temple presents an interesting challenge to visitors: reaching the top means conquering 1,700 steps cut into mountainside jungle, requiring about an hour and a half of serious climbing. Ordinary Balinese make their way up the stairs to ask for divine assistance with problems or request blessings from above.

The temple at the top offers awesome views of Gunung Agung, framed by the temple gate. Try to visit on the Thursday after Galungan, to see Lempuyang during its odalan.

Location: East Bali, accessible via Candidasa.

Odalan falls on: July 25 (2019), February 20 and September 17 (2020), April 15 and November 11 (2021)

A Cave Agape: Goa Gajah

Known as the “Elephant Cave,” Goa Gajah seems strangely free from elephants until you realize it takes its name from its proximity to the Elephant River. (Which is also strangely lacking in elephants.)

Goa Gajah’s key attraction is the menacing entrance to the cave — the surrounding rock has been carved into a face, mouth agape.

The interior of the cave features a statue of the Hindu god Ganesha and a worship area devoted to the Hindu god Shiva. Goa Gajah probably dates back to the 11th century and is mentioned in a poem that dates back to the 1300s.

Location: Central Bali, about 10 minutes’ drive southeast of Ubud.

Odalan falls on: March 26 and October 22 (2019), May 19 and December 15 (2020), July 13 (2021)

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